Historically, culturally and geographically, northwest Yunnan is one of the most diverse and alluring destinations in China. Our purpose for this adventure was to explore a short trail leading up and over Biluo Snow Mountain (碧罗雪山) in Fugong County (福贡县) with trekking guide and friend Hongxing — a Tibetan Catholic from Cizhong Village (茨中村).

Hongxing frequently takes travelers from Cizhong to Dimaluo (迪麻洛), but we are in search of a fantastic off-the-beaten trail that crosses the mountain ridge separating the Nu River (怒江) in the west from the Lancang (澜沧江) further east. We meet up in Bingzhongluo (丙中洛) near the Nu River and then journey downstream before starting our trek over the pass.

We set out from Shiyueliang (石月亮) — or Stone Moon — a remarkable hole in a mountain through which you can see the sky winking back from the other side. Hitching a ride on a three-wheeled motorbike with two Lisu kids, our destination is Shimendeng (石门登), a tiny village set against the stunning backdrops of Biluo Snow Mountain.